Welcome to Kennel Shadyway's! I breed the three breeds I love - rhodesian ridgeback, boxer and poodle. At the moment I own ridgebacks in real life.
I am Finnish, but I live in Estonia. I love showing and training dogs. I always show my own dogs, I've been handling our dogs in the ring since I was 9 years old. I also compete in for ex. obedience and agility with my own dogs.
In Furry Paws, I keep my own dogs in best possible shape. My dogs are all kept in 100% overall condition. I run them through a 64-rated training area every day, feed them the best possible food and show them in 50 shows everyday. I use the best accessories my dogs can get for the sports they are competing in.
I have never and I will never stat boost my own dogs, but I understand people who want to do that, and I will sell my dogs and 100% accept stat boosting of the dogs I have bred.
Breeding
I breed one or two litters per dog/bitch. I try to breed healthy dogs with good boosts and good colours. Because I want to train boxers to Schutzhund, poodles to show and ridgebacks to racing, boosts play an important role in my breeding. I always keep a puppy with best possible genes and boosts, even if it isn't actually the best puppy in the litter. I don't pick studs only because of their levels, but because of their genes.
I consider genes more important than levels. I'd rather use a lvl 12 dog with good genetics than lvl 40 with genetics I don't like at all. I don't hesitate to go to pet shop if I think I don't find what I'm looking for from other breeders.
I avoid keeping/buying/using dogs of a disqualifying colour (FCI standards), which includes for ex. white boxers, parti-coloured poodles and ridgebacks of any other colour than red or light red. I never use white boxer stud or parti-colour poodle stud. I avoid keeping white boxer puppies from litters, but I would consider it, if the white puppy was a lot better than any of the fawn/brindle puppies. I also prefer boxers with a black mask. I never keep parti-coloured poodle puppies.
I usually breed my bitches at 88 and 100 days. Sometimes I might breed them earlier because I have a male retiring (with no or very little offspring).
All my litters are bred with help by a master breeder. I feed my puppies every day, and socialize them well. I usually keep the best puppy, but second pick of litter is for sale (check litter notes for exceptions). If you are interested in a certain puppy from a certain breeding, please send me a message. In the past, if no one was interested in the 2nd pick, I usually picked the second puppy myself and put it for sale. But now, due to difficulties in selling dogs, I keep 2 puppies/litter ONLY if there has been reservations and/or the puppies are very special and I believe I'll find a good home for the puppy. If no reservations have been made, I keep only 1 puppy per litter (and that puppy is not for sale). If you are interested in purchasing a puppy from me, send me a message!
Puppy-buyers get a my full support and . I will do my best to help everybody, who buy my dogs, and answer the questions they have. If I don't know, I'll try to find out. Every puppy I have bred, are welcome to return to my kennel, if the buyer cannot keep them any longer. I will either decide to keep the dog myself or find him/her another new good home. If I can, I will also take other dogs that are sold or dogs that are sired by one of my males/by a lease-bitch.
You don't have to be a puppy-buyer to get help though.
Dogs for sale
Puppy prices are usually $50 000-$100 000, depending on the quality of the puppy. The price is $1000 X the highest stat of the puppy, but the price depends on the health too. Every fair in health lowers the price by $5000, and 3 excellents rise it by $5000, 4 excellent $10 000. Puppies are sold to homes, who feed and play with their dogs every day, and enter their dogs to maximum amount of shows every day. I don't sell to kennels who breed dogs below lvl 10.
All dogs are sold gene&health tested, full, 10/10 happiness, vaccinated and trained and with all the accessories they are wearing. If you make your offer after I've already entered my dogs, you will get a dog with 50/50 entries, but usually I don't enter my dogs to shows before accepting their offers. Dogs over 12 days old will be double-trained, and younger puppies are trained to one sport. Puppies, that have been reserved before weaned, haven't been trained at all, so that the new owner can decide in which sports s/he wants to put the puppy in.
Feel free to make an offer on ANY of my dogs. Almost any of my dogs is for sale, if an owner of a good kennel is willing to pay a reasonable price for them. All offers will be considered and accepted/declined with explanation. You must make your offer by messaging me, if the dog isn't for sale or you want to bid below the minimum bid. But I must mention, that don't bother to offer, if you haven't taken good care of your dogs.
Good homes are ALWAYS considered more important than money. Feel free to offer anything, even below minimum bids, if you consider your kennel a good home.
Before offering
Now I have told you, what you get, it's time for what I require.
I want, that people take as good care of my puppies as possible.- Fed everyday with the best possible food
- 10/10 happiness every day
- Run through a 64-rated training area every day
- Vaccinated
- 30 (normal kennels) or 50 (elite kennels) shows every day
The kennel should also have minimum breeding level 10, if there is no special reason for breeding dogs on lower levels (for ex. working on 24HH dog). I will check all kennels before accepting my offers. If they look ok, I will accept the offer.
Min. breeding levels:
Elite accounts: 15
Normal accounts: 10
Because elite accounts can show +20 shows per day, it is a lot easier to get levels than with a normal account. Getting a dog to level 15 is a piece of cake to an elite, but it is not always possible to get all dogs to level 15 with a normal account (for example store dogs). But it is more like a recommendation than an absolute minimum, and I will accept all requests made to dogs on level 10 or above.
I avoid breeding my own dogs before they are on at least level 20. But because I consider genes more important than levels, I might use a a dog below lvl 20 (but above 14) to stud, if I don't find any other dog that satisfies me.
Breeding fees
All my dogs (both males and females) are available for breeding when they reach level 10. No bitches over 88 days will be available for breeding. 88 day breedings are available.
At the moment, most of my dogs aren't up for stud/lease, because I had my kennel locked for a long while and they will not be able to breed to most dogs in FP. If you want to try, or you have a dog that was born a long time ago too, send me a message!
Dogs:
$1000/every level
For ex. Lvl 10: $10000
Lvl 13: $13000
Lvl 20: $20000
Bitches:
Lvl 10: $10000
Lvl 11-> $2000/every level (for ex. level 13: $26000, Lvl 20 $40000)
All prices are negotiable, but please keep in mind, that I've used a lot of money to get my dogs to the level they are on.
Note!
I don't want any kind of art; no banners, no layouts, no pictures, nothing! Please don't offer them to me, I am not willing to pay for something I could do myself, if I wanted. Thank you.
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